Finger Taming Your Cockatiel
When you cat get this far, the next step is to close your fingers so that only the index finger is extended, and again, with the palm of your hand facing down, place the index finger either under his claws or against his belly. If the parrot intends to climb onto your hand, he will use his beak to steady himself when he places his claws on your extended finger. This is a moment of truth for you and the parrot. Is the beak coming down to bite you, or is he simply using it as a third foot. as parrots do. You will never know tilde, sou take a chance and keep your hand steady. If you jerk your hand away, you will frighten the bird, who might hme been getting ready to climb onto your hand. Keep your hand steady and risk his bite. It is worth the risk, as it is the first step toward, future relationship. If you are dealing with a large bird or you are very concerned about being bitten but still wishes to test the bird’s intentious off your arm or wrist instead of your finger as the parrot cannot get a really good biting grip on the parts of one body.
Some birds will meet taming efforts only part way. They will place one claw on the proffered hand and keep the other on the bars of the cage. Don’t attempt to pull a parrot that does this out of the cage, as it is virtually impossible to do so. As quickly as you unfasten one claw from the bar, he will grip another. Instead, take the opportunity to pet him gently as he sits there with one claw on your hand and holds on to the cage for (lea life with his other foot. Ito not he concerned or upset if he nibbles you or even squeezes firmly with his beak. It is only actual biting (where blood is drawn) that cannot tolerated. All other actions with his beak should is considered in the same light as the innocent mountings of a young puppy.
If you do not gel a positive reaction in your efforts to encourage the parrot to climb onto your finger, try pushing gently on his belly with the edge of your open hand (once again with the palm down). If you persist with this gentle pressure, he will either climb onto your hand (wit(’ pushed off the perch. Islost parrots will choose the former. If either technique works and you now have the parnit on your hancl, iii»1 know how pleased you are by praising him and then move him gmly to a “T” stand. Sit quietly some distance from the “T” stand while the parrot familiarizes himself with his new location. He will probably engage in it certain amount of wing flapping, but this is just his way of stretching and is not an indication that he is about to fly away. in anticipation of training, ask the bird seller or your veterinarian to clip the flight feathers on one wing so that the parrot’s ability to fly will be limited. This is painless and harmless to the bird and saves the new owner a great deal of thinning and climbing. A parrot who has one wing clipped can fly well enough to break his fall if he leaves his stand, but cannot fly any great distance.
If friend parrot refuses out of his cage with these techniques there are several alternatives left. One is the procedure known as stick training this is similar to the method described above, but instead of offering he bird his band, the trainer substitutes a short (about six inches) length of perch. It is astonishing to watch a parrot who has refused any contact with a hand climb amicably upon the stick, which to him represents a familiar object, similar to his own perch. Use the stick to move the parrot to a “T” stand and thereafter keep shortening the stick by holding more of it in your hand. Eventually, the parrot will have one foot on the stick and one on your hand. From that point on you should be able to use your hand in place of the stick. Don’t wait too long to make the transition row stick to hand because the longer you wail he less the parrot will want to give up his little security blanket.
When you reach the point where you can hold your birch try to keep him on your index fin, so that you can gently but firmly. hot him by placing your thumb over his claws. If he attempts to fly (which will probably do if you move or walk with him) it is important that you move your hand to follow the direction of thrust and generated by his flapping wings. If you fail to do this, his feet or claws con be injured by the strain placed on them.
If you don’t seem to be getting anywhere with hand or stick training, a third technique, is to keep the door of the parrot’s cage open until he climbs out himself. It is almost second nature for a parrot to climbs this and he will undoubtedly end up on top of his cage.Once he has done this. you can try using either your hand or the stick technique. Many people actually prefer to begin at this point, as the bird has fewer places to move on top of the cage when you offer himyour hand.