Pet Snake
COMMON NAME: Snake - Boas, Pythons andmany others
SCIENTIFIC NAME :Commonly kept snakes of the genera Boa, Python, Natrix, Elaphe, etc.
DISTRIBUTION : Worldwide except for the Arctic, Antarctic and one or two places such as Ireland
HABITAT : Forest, grassland, desert - pretty well everywhere
ADULT SIZE : 25 cm-8 m(10 in-26 ft)
GENERAL: The majority of snakes are to be found in the tropics, and the further you travel from the equator the less species will you find, as snakes need warmth to operate, which is why they hibernate during the winter in temperate parts of the world. Some species of snake live in trees, some on the ground and some even spend their lives in the sea. Only about ten per cent of species of snake are venomous, and many of those are not lethal to humans. Many snakes are nocturnal.
Snakes are good animals to keep as pets, but keeping snakes should not be undertaken lightly. Like all animals there are aspects of their husbandry that can present problems and somebody taking on a snake must understand this, but the right snake is an even better pet, in my opinion, than the more commonly kept cats, dogs and ponies. Always remember that every single snake in the world is a born escapologist, which will somehow manage to squeeze through the tiniest space. If one does escape there is a pretty good chance that you will recover it if you think intelligently. First of all consider whether the snake is terrestrial or arboreal. If it is a tree-living specimen it will try to move upwards while some-thing like a Python will get down to the floor as soon as it can. The next thing to look for is the nearest dark hole and after that, somewhere warm. Even if you do not find your snake immediately do not despair; it is amazing how many of them turn up weeks later.
When you are looking for a snake to buy, leave Grass Snakes alone. It is tempting to start with one because they are familiar, a reasonable size and fairly inexpensive, but believe me, they are not for beginners and if it is to be your first snake you will probably lose it fairly soon. The best first snake of all is a young Boa Constrictor or python. They are small, easy to handle, beautiful and a pleasure to look at, but if you like the idea of a Reticulate Python, think carefully. They can be snappy beasts, and although that will not matter now, a bite from a 3 m (10 ft) specimen is best avoided. Indian Pythons, Ball Pythons and African Pythons are better. If you are bitten by your snake the damage is usually minimal - no worse than the pricks and scratches you get when you are out collecting blackberries. Handle a large, angry snake than a small, angry cat any day of the year.
Every so often your snake will slough, or change its skin. A few days before this happens the eyes will go cloudy and the snake will not feed and might strike at you because it cannot see too clearly. Then one day it will rub its nose on a conveniently rough surface to loosen the old skin, and over the next several minutes the snake will haul himself out from it, usually leaving a complete, inside out snakeskin, which you should remove. The snake will look particularly beautiful after a slough and will probably be ready for a drink and possibly a meal. The interval between sloughs varies enormously between a few weeks and several months.
FOOD : With one or two rare exceptions, wild snakes kill and eat animals of a suitable size. Some species will take almost anything, whereas other have highly specific tastes in food and these must be borne in mind with captive specimens.
A young snake will need feeding frequently, perhaps several times a week, but as it grows the interval between feeds will decrease (though often it is not constant), and sometimes a snake will fast for months. By law, all rodents, chicks and other similar food must be dead when it is offered to a snake.
HOUSING : Most captive snakes are kept in aquarium tanks, glass shop counters or something similar. They ought to be of adequate size - bigger than they often are. The cage furnishings will depend on the type of snake, but typically the floor should be covered with a thick layer of sheets of plain newsprint, or perhaps gravel or peat but never sand) and a variety of perches, rocks and hiding places. Some snakes need holes that are so small they can feel the sides when they are resting inside. A good heavy water dish that cannot be tipped over must be provided and the cage should be heated to between 26°-32°C (80-90T), depending on the species of snake. It is not a good idea to provide the heating by means of a light bulb for more than a short while as there is evidence that this could be harmful. Ceramic heater bulbs, soil-warming cables or something of the sort should provide the heat, and a light used only as a light source. Whatever heat source you use, put it at one end of the cage so that the snake can move to a cooler place if it wishes. Do make sure that the snake cannot burn itself by making a wire mesh cage around light bulbs and heaters. Ultraviolet light in small doses is vital, but the constant use of UV is linked with skin tumors and eye problems.
BREEDING : Just occasionally a snake is imported which gives birth after you have obtained her, but until recently hardly any captive breeding was being done. Fortunately, today more and more snakes are being produced in captivity, and about three years ago someone in Nottinghamshire was accepted on a government enterprise allowance scheme to breed snakes commercially. So, if you look after your snakes carefully and sensitively and keep proper records, there is a good chance that you might be able to breed from them.
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