Pigeon Loft

There are those, of course, who can afford to build some-thing like pigeon palaces - large permanent constructions toaccommodate considerable numbers. But such is the equalityof our sport that neither the size of the home nor itssurroundings guarantee great achievements.

It may be wondered why the building for housing pigeons iscalled a 'loft'. This is probably because in earlier times inBritain most pigeons were kept in high buildings. One oldfancier told me over fifty years ago that the reason for this wasto keep the birds away from poachers, although he said that some of these clever fellows used to employ small boys toclimb up through the small entrances to take the birds. In Belgium, pigeons' accommodation is still mostly found underthe roof of the family home, in what is usually termed the 'loft'and normally used in Britain as storage space. Many leadingBelgian fanciers have had their houses deliberately built to adesign with enough loft room to ensure they have the housingthey need for their pigeons.

So although most of the pigeon houses in Great Britain arenow in gardens, the description of them as lofts is understand-able. In some parts of Great Britain the loft is described byother names; for instance in the Midlands it is referred to as`the pen', whilst in Northumberland and the Scottish Bordersit is known as 'the cree'. Further north in Scotland it is the`ducat', a colloquialism for 'do° cote'; for many north of theBorder refer to their pigeons as 'dons'.

Ready-made lofts are available and are advertised quiteregularly in the papers devoted to the sport. There is, however, a great deal more fun in building your own pigeonhouse, if you have the ability. If you decide to build your ownloft, there are a number of important points to bear in mind.One is the cost, for it is important that pigeons should be ahobby and not just a drain on one's pocket; you must buildwhat you can afford. Secondly you must consider the numberof birds you intend to keep, for it is wrong and dangerous toovercrowd them. You should allow about 0.6m3 (2Ocu ft) perbird.

The next point to consider is the siting of the loft. This, inbuilt-up areas, will probably be controlled by the size of the back garden, but the loft should be as far from other buildingsas possible, with a view to obtaining maximum sun. Generallyit is thought best to site it facing south or south-east, but if thisis not possible adjustments in construction can be made. Forinstance, my first loft had to be sited facing west, so I arrangedan opening on the southern side which allowed all possiblesunshine to enter the loft throughout the day. During autumnand winter I covered the southern-end opening with a glassframe, thus shutting out the driving rain of the prevailingsouth-west wind.
If, because your garden is too small or because of localregulations, you cannot have a loft at your home, you may stillbe able to keep pigeons. Particularly in the north-east ofEngland there are areas where fanciers have their lofts onallotments, and in parts of south Wales lofts are situated onthe side of slag heaps. In some cases such devoted fancierswalk two or three miles to their lofts carrying fresh water atleast twice a day.
If an existing out-building, garage or attic can be takenover, it will of course save much time and expense. Avoidanything that has contained poultry, for many diseases can betransmitted to pigeons, especially coccidiosis. Brick buildingshave many advantages over wood, for they are inherentlydrier, less prone to condensation, warmer in winter and coolerin summer.

One other point in the placing of the loft must be theconsideration of the position of other buildings in relation tothe birds' drop-in. It is important that there should be as fewobstacles as possible in the approach for, if a bird has to circleseveral times before making its landing, valuable time is lost ina race.

When building your loft remember it should becompletely dry and waterproof; for as much as sunshine is afriend to pigeons, so damp is an enemy - in damp loftsdisease will quickly develop. You must also be careful to start with a plan which will suit your own personal requirernents,remembering that when you arc in the loft you will need roomto move around quietly, working among the birds and nearenough to talk to them at the same time.

It is important to make sure you have a good strong floor1.5cm to 2.5cm (1/2in to lin) thick boards supported by 5cm(2in) cross members on 7.5cm x 7.5cm (3in x 3in) runnersthe length of the loft. It must take more than your own weight,for at some time or other you are certain to have visitors withyou. But, although strong, it should be portable. The floor of,for example, a 5.5m x 1.8m (I8ft x 6ft) loft, could well bemade of three sections 1.8m (6ft) square. Portability, in fact,applies to all parts of a loft. Construction should be insections, and the sections should be joined only with nuts andbolts so that, if the loft needs to be moved, the job can beeasily done.

It is not necessary to obtain all new materials for buildingthe loft; some well-designed lofts have been built of timberobtained from packing cases. Generally the wood covering thesides should be approximately 1.5cm (1/2in) thick; the width ofthe planks does not really matter although it is desirable, for appearance sake at least, to maintain uniformity of width oneach side of the loft. The usual is wooden planks approximate-ly 10-15cm (4-6in) wide, and if you can obtain these in tongueand groove this will help to ensure a close fit, thus assistingdamp proofing.

The lower part of the front of the loft should be covered inup to a height of about lm (3ft). The upper part should consistof dowel rods 1.5cm (1/2in) in diameter, set about 5cm (2in)apart. These may be covered with netting of 7mm (approx1/4in) mesh to keep out wild birds such as sparrows or starlingswhich will carry diseases to your birds, and eat their corn.All horizontal surfaces will need to be scraped regularly toremove the pigeons' droppings; therefore it is very importanthat there are no joints in which dirt can lodge. Evenlongue-and-groove boards are not ideal because in time thewood will shrink and leave gaps, or expand and rise up,causing splinters as you scrape it. Plastic vinyl tiles orhardboard have all been used to give a good scraping floor,which will save you hours of time in the long run.

Interior partitions are usually made of thin wooden lathsnailed to 2.5cm or 4cm (lin or 1 V2in) quartering, screwed tot he floor and walls of the loft. Partitions should be removable,in case you wish to alter anything. Each partition will need adoor, and if possible these should be of sliding type to savespace when opening them. In the normal 5.5m (18ft) x 2m(6ft) loft, two partitions provide three sections - one in whichI he breeding will be carried out and to which the old birds willrace, one for any pigeons you do not intend to fly out (stock(birds) and one into which the young birds will be transferredand to which they will race in their first season. During winterthe sexes can then be parted into two of the three sections.

Ventilation is of great importance in the loft, fresh air beingessential to the health of pigeons. The design of your loftshould therefore provide a steady flow of fresh air but not draughts. As a start, the loft should be raised at least 23cm(9in) from the ground, preferably on brick pillars, to allow asteady flow of air beneath. It is as well to surround the supportwith small-mesh wire netting to prevent marauders such ascats, hiding under the loft waiting to pounce on any birdwhich may alight on the ground. Bury the lower edge in theground and turn it outwards to discourage rats and mice fromtunnelling under your loft, for the latter will eat the corn andrats will kill the pigeons.
Internal ventilation should provide air circulation in theform of inlets in the front provided by louvres about 30cm(12in) wide x 20cm (8in) deep set about 10cm (4in) abovefloor level, and an outlet opening about 10cm (4in) deep alongthe top of the back of the loft. "phis opening should be coveredby narrow-gauge `Twilweld' or wire mesh. The louvres shouldbe set so as to give at least one in each section of the loft. Avoiddraughts, for cold pigeons cannot give of their best, and neverhave ventilation which will let rain beat into the loft.