Pet Care Pet Care

Healthy Rabbit

The early recognition of ill health in the rabbit is most important, for the earlier the treatment the greater is the chance of success. In most cases it is quite useless to commence treatment when the disease has progressed so far that the animalism obviously dying. The full benefit of veterinary advice will not be obtained unless it is obtained early, and the longer sick rabbits remains outside isolation, the greater are the chances of the spread of the disease.

The reasons for slow gain in weight, or loss in weight,or lack of appetite, should be sought. You should quickly note any change in the appearance, habits or feces of your rabbits.

The coat of the rabbits is a good indication of health. A dry, dull, harsh,staring or patchy coat indicates that something is wrong with your rabbit. As leek, glossy, lustrous coat with its natural bloom indicates it's well being. Loose hairs indicate that the rabbit is molting,which is of course perfectly natural, but scurf should not be present.

The healthy rabbit is alert. Any sudden noise or movement will awaken its immediate interest. Its movements are easy and free and it does not sit huddled in a corner of the hutch.When resting it is relaxed, with its breathing even and not shallow. Adult rabbits have a respiration rate of from 30 to 55 breaths a minute, although youngsters may breathe nearly twice as rapidly. There should be no noise as the animal breathes.
The eye should be bright and bold and there should be no discharge from it, nor from any other part of the body,particularly the nostrils, mouth, vent, anus or teats, which parts should also be free from any sores.

The fleshing of the rabbit also gives indication of its health.The muscles along either side of the spine should be firm and full and the rabbit should not feel " bony". There should be no swellings which indicate cysts, abscesses or ruptures. The healthy rabbit is full of vitality and the aim of every breeder should be to keep his stock in this condition.


Rabbit Care Tips

Buying a Rabbit
Champagne Argente Rabbit
Chinchilla
Commercial Rabbit Housing
Coprophagy in Rabbits
Cross Breeding Pet Rabbit
Dutch Rabbit
Flemish Giant Rabbit
Haemorrhagic Septicaemia
Healthy Rabbit
How to Build Rabbit Hutch
How to Feed a Rabbit
How to Make Rabbit Traps
How to Sex a Rabbit
How to Test Mating
How To Toilet Train a Rabbit
Inbreeding Rabbits
Like to Like Breeding Rabbits
Linebreeding Rabbits
Litter Training a Rabbit
Mini Rex Rabbit Breeds
Outdoor Rabbit Hutch
Polish Rabbit
Progeny Testing
Rabbit Antibiotic
Rabbit Attack
Rabbit Bloat
Rabbit Breeds
Rabbit Breeding
Rabbit Care
Rabbit Cage
Rabbit Cannibalism
Rabbit Coccidiosis
Rabbit Constipation
Rabbit Digestibility
Rabbit Digestive System
Rabbit Doe Kindling Start Signs
Rabbit Ear Canker
Rabbit Fertility
Rabbit Food Chain
Rabbit Fungus
Rabbit Giving Birth
Rabbit Growth of Fur
Rabbit Growth Rates
Rabbit Handling
Rabbit Health
Rabbit Hutch
Rabbit Hutch 2
Rabbit Hutch Plans
Rabbit Injuries
Rabbit Lactation
Rabbit Maintenance
Rabbit Manure
Rabbit Mastitis
Rabbit Maturity
Rabbit Minerals
Rabbit Names
Rabbit Pellets
Rabbit Pneumonia
Rabbit Pregnancy
Rabbit Proof Fence
Rabbit Proof Shrubs
Rabbits Pseudo Pregnancy
Rabbit Pseudo Tuberculosis
Rabbit Salmonella Infections
Rabbit Schmorl Disease
Rabbit Scouring
Rabbit Snuffles
Rabbit Sore Hocks
Rabbit Spay Operation
Rabbit Spirochmtosis
Rabbit Strangles
Rabbit Tuberculosis
Rabbit Virus
Rabbit Vitamin
Rabbit Water
Rabbit Weaning
Rabbit Worming
Rabbitry
Sabin Rabbit Breeds
Selecting a Rabbit Breed
Sending a Doe for Mating
Siberian Rabbit
Silver Rabbit
Size of Rabbit Litters
The Care of the Doe and Litter
The Netherland Dwarf
The New Zealand Red
The Various Stages Of Rabbit's Life
Types of Rabbit
Types of Rabbit Hutch
Ventilation in Rabbitry
What Does Jack Rabbit Eat